Forty kilometers outside of Kampot, just past Kep, is the small town of Kampong Trach. This unassuming town suffered immensely in the past, as it was both a target for American bombings and one of the major strongholds of the Khmer Rouge who terrorized the region as late as 1994. Beforehand, it had been one of the main hubs between Vietnam and Phenom Penh and rivaled Kampot for importance in the region. Today, nothing remains of the town’s original Chinese shophouses and French villas; everything was razed by the Khmer Rouge
It’s rare for foreign tourists to visit — the town offers little of interest — which is unfortunate because it’s surrounded by some of the most beautiful scenery in the area.
Nestled in the rice fields that surround the town are dramatic limestone hills which are somewhat reminiscent of Vietnam’s Halong Bay. Within the hills are dozens of caves which were used in the past, first to shelter during the bombings and, later, as killing caves for the Khmer Rouge. Today they’re local attractions, often containing shrines and temples memorializing their turbulent past.
The most famous of these caves has a collapsed roof creating an enclosed jungle — monkeys and all — hiding a large temple and several shrines, illuminated by sunlight pouring in from above.
Another nearby cave contains a cool pond that’s a popular swimming spots with the locals on hot days. There are the Sun and Moon caves, named after the shape of the cave entrance and The Cave of a Thousand Rice Fields, which contains limestone terraces resembling those where rice is grown.
Nearby, at the base of Phnom Dumrei (Elephant Mountain), lies a reservoir dug by the Khmer Rouge where, today, you can see the locals using traditional dugout canoes to gather local plants.
The dirt roads that meander through the quaint rural villages will lead you from one hill to another. Trails often lead up to animistic shrines built in locations that offer stunning, dramatic views.
The region is off the beaten path when it comes to Western tourists, however, it’s popular with Cambodians so there’s plenty of vendors and restaurants around ready to serve local food at local prices. Enterprising Cambodians will offer to show you around some of the larger caves for a small fee. The locals are, as always, warm and welcoming, thrilled to see barang who can offer them the chance to practice their English.
Cambodia is changing fast and Kampong Trach will certainly, one day, become more well known. But, for now, it remains one of those hidden gems, still untouched by mass tourism.